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Take the time to work through these instructions, and installing your ceiling fan will be a breeze.

Installing a Ceiling Fan . A simple ceiling fan is can be more beneficial than other heating and cooling options, as its operating cost is much lower. In almost all homes, the fan is installed in the center of the room, replacing a central light fixture in the ceiling. This spot provides a smooth air flow throughout most of the room, and since a fan draws about the same amount of power as a ceiling light fixture, the electrical circuit shouldn't be overloaded.

WARNING: If your fan also includes lights, be sure the circuit has enough extra capacity to handle the load. If not, you must run a new circuit with a new circuit breaker from the house's main service panel or sub- panel to the fan. If there is no central light fixture, you'll have to create a place to hang the ceiling fan. Then, you'll need to bring electrical power to it. You can tap into an existing circuit to do this. Step 1 – Cut the Power.

Before removing or installing anything, kill the power to the light fixture. Turn off the circuit you're working on by switching off a circuit breaker or by unscrewing a fuse, keeping in mind that the house's main switch should be off when handling fuses. Then, padlock the panel if you can. WARNING: Using your hands or tools to touch the light fixture wires and parts while the power is still connected to that part of your home presents a risk of shock or electrocution. Step 2- Make Sure the Power is Actually Off. Sometimes the power enters at the fixture, even when the switch is located in the circuit beyond it.

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Make sure the circuit is truly . Check with a high- voltage neon tester. Step 3 – Make a Place for Your Fan. If there is no existing central light fixture, snap diagonal chalk lines from opposite corners of the room to find its center. Determine whether the lines cross exactly below a ceiling joist, or one of the room’s horizontal support beams. If they do, move aside just far enough between joists to let you fasten the side of the fan's new junction box directly to the joist. Cut a hole large enough for the junction box to be slipped in.

If it's next to the beam, drill holes in its side and screw it to the joist. Installation between joists is also OK. Fasten the box to a 2x. Sometimes, you can insert a 2x. If not, you may need to open a larger access hole.

Then, patch the hole to close it again. Step 4 – Choosing the Correct Junction Box. A metal junction box is the only kind that is appropriate for supporting a ceiling fan. Never hang the fan from a plastic box. Depending on the brand, style, and size of your ceiling fan–and your electrical code, you may use a 4 inch or 3 inch octagonal junction box. WARNING: Some local codes don't permit the use of 3 inch boxes.

You will need to research the specifics for your own area. Step 5 – Prepare For Proper Mounting. Weight. The maximum weight for a ceiling fan that can still be reliably supported by an outlet box is 3. Any fan that weighs more than that should be supported by the actual building structure. However you end up configuring things, make sure that the junction box is supported and augmented by the building structure to a point where it can hold at least 5. Remember, your mounting must also be able to withstand vibration while the fan is running, as even a well- balanced fan creates some vibration when it runs.

Mounting. You'll use a special beam mount when mounting a fan to a beamed ceiling. Use one kind for a horizontal beam and another for a pitched or sloping beam. Depending on your ceiling, you may need an extender to lower the fan to the proper level.

Fan- mounting is particularly important because any failure to make things secure could allow your fan to fall from the ceiling. Troubleshooting. If mounting the fan proves particularly difficult, use a piece of good- looking hardwood plywood as a fan- mount. It should be large enough to extend over two joists.

The size may be 1. The screw length will vary, depending on the thickness of the plywood and plaster or plasterboard ceiling below the joists. Use one screw every 6 inches. Finish the plywood with an outside corner molding, mitered at the corners for a neat appearance.> > Click Here for Animation Instructions of Steps 1- 5. Step 6 – Decide If You Should Attach Blades or Wait. Fan assembly varies from brand to brand. Be sure to follow the specific instructions associated with your unit.

Regardless of the manufacturer's instructions, if the fan blades are less than a screwdriver's length away from the ceiling, it’s best to install the blades before hanging the fan. Step 7 – Attach the Hanger Pipe. The hanger pipe is a hollow length of pipe that usually connects toward the top of the fan and meets the actual ceiling.

The electrical wires are drawn up through its center. The hanger pipe is usually placed into its hole on top of the motor. A set screw is tightened securely to make sure the pipe stays in place after it is threaded down. Tighten the set screw well. Some fans have a separate motor hub into which the hanger pipe mounts.

In this case, you'll place the actual motor housing over the hub. Step 8 – Install the Blades. As stated above, this step can be done earlier in the process depending on how manageable the blades’ size and position are in relation to your work space. To attach the fan blades, set the motor unit down where it will be stable.

The styrene foam packing for the motor housing makes an excellent stabilizer on your worktable. Most fan blades have a two- pronged attachment consisting of screws that come through holes in the blades and into the flanges. These need to be drawn up securely, but not so tightly that the threads are damaged or the laminated blade material is crushed.

On many fans you'll find that the flanges, or prongs, also need to be mounted to the motor housing. If this is the case, mount them to the housing before the flanges are mounted to the blades themselves.

Step 9 – Measure Blade Height. Now, check the floor- to- ceiling height of the fan blades. You can do this by measuring the floor- to- ceiling distance and subtracting for the part of the fan that will extend below the ceiling down to the lower blade surface.

An absolute minimum height of 7 feet is recommended. This may be reinforced by building codes in your area. If the height is too low, either for your tastes or according to your local code, consider purchasing a low- ceiling mount for your fan. With some models, the fan blade height can be increased by as much as 1.

Just remember that you need at least 1. If you have the space to spare, aim for an 1. Step 1. 0 – Install the Hanger Bracket. Install the hanger bracket, sometimes called the mounting bracket, onto the box using screws and lock washers. Even if you aren’t supplied with any lock washers, get some, and use them. They’ll prevent your fan’s vibration from loosening the screws over time. The hanger bracket may accept either a half- ball hanger or a hook- type hanger, depending on which kind your fan uses.

In either case, make sure that the hanger is carefully slipped into the bracket. Step 1. 1 – Wiring. Next, the unit is wired, and the ceiling cover is slipped up to its full height and tightened in place. WARNING: Even with the power cut, if you wire your fan incorrectly and then try to operate it once the power is restored, it can be a hazard. Fan manufacturer’s aim to make the process as simple as possible, but mistakes can still happen. If you are uncomfortable with the wiring part of this process, call a professional for help.

It may not be expensive at all assuming that you manage to get through the rest of the assembly on your own. Making Connections. Be sure to connect the black house wires to the black fan wires, and the white house wires to the white fan wires. Ground Your Fan. The fan should be electrically grounded to its metal box. The grounding wires will be either green or bare copper. A green grounding pigtail attached to the box by a bonding screw will make your work easier.

Repairing Plasterboard Holes . Plasterboard is quite soft and the slightest of impacts such as when moving furniture can mark the surface and even put a hole right through it. The same can also be said for hollow doors - Due to the void in the centre and MDF or fibreboard used as the covering, this does not provide much protection when it comes to resisting impacts.

Another complication that springs to light when you have unfortunately made a hole in a plasterboard wall or hollow door is the void behind it due to the construction of the stud work used to hold the plasterboard up or provide the framework for the door meaning that you can't just use filler as there is nothing to bond it to. Fortunately there are a few tricks you can use in order to successfully fill a hole of this type, whether it is in a plasterboard wall or a hollow door. Additionally, if you take your time over the repair and filling stage then there is no reason why the repair shouldn't be very hard to spot. Repairing hole in plasterboard. The two main repair methods can be found below: Repairing a Plasterboard Hole Using a Piece of Plasterboard or Timber. Hole in plasterboard wall.

Check for Wires, Pipes and Other Items. As you will need to do a bit of cutting, before you start this, firstly run over the area around the hole with a wire detector to make sure there aren't any wires, pipes or other items that you may accidentally cut through. Use a stud and wire detector to check the area surrounding the hole for electrical wires. Square the Hole up. To repair a hole in a hollow door, wall, or ceiling, firstly trim the edges of the hole and make is square.

Ironically, you actually have to make the hole larger before you can go about fixing it! Depending on the shape of the hole, whether its circular or has jagged edges you may need to use a padsaw, jabsaw or hobby knife.

Be careful using any of these items as they are sharp and can slip quite easily. Square up the hole using a padsaw or hobby knife. Cut a Repair Patch. Now that you have squared up the hole, the next job is to make a patch. You can either use a scrap piece of plasterboard or timber. Hold your chosen patch material up to the base of the hole and mark its width. Once marked, measure and cut the patch to the correct width and then check that it passes through the hole nicely.

Making width of patch for the hole using a scrap piece of plasterboard. Now hold the patch to the side to mark its height but add an inch top and bottom. This is what you will use to stick the patch to the rear side of your wall. Once marked cut to the correct size. Patch cut to width and height ready to be fitted. Push Screw into Centre.

With the patch ready to go, the final job is to drill a small hole through the centre and push a screw through. The screw will be used to position and hold the patch in place until it dries. Once its dried and stuck in the hole you can push the screw out into the wall void.

Push a screw through the centre of the patch so that you can hold on to it. Add Adhesive. In order to ensure that the patch stays in place you will need to add some adhesive to the inch overlap that you left on the longest side of the patch and around the sides. In the image below we have used some patching plaster but you can use any heavy duty construction adhesive such as Grip Fill or No More Nails. Add adhesive to the top, bottom and sides of the patch in order to hold it in place on the wall.

Insert the Patch into the Hole. Pick up the patch by holding the screw and tilt it to insert it into the hole. Even it up so that you have a decent amount of overlap top and bottom so that the patch will be held firmly in place once the adhesive has set.

Use gentle pulling pressure, while moving around slightly to ensure good contact between the adhesive and the back of the surface until you are sure the adhesive will hold the piece in place. Depending on what adhesive you have used will depend on how long this is, check the manufacturers guidelines on drying time. Once the adhesive has dried enough to support the patch you can now push the screw out into the wall void.

Leave for a further 2. Use the screw to hold the patch in place in the hole until the adhesive has dried. Fill in the Hole. The final stage to this repair is to fill the hole with a suitable filler such as Polyfilla or the like.

Once mixed (or the tub is open if you have a pre- mixed version), scoop out a lump using a small trowel and apply it to the hole, using the trowel to completely fill the area of the hole by pushing into the corners. Add as much filler as you need to until the hole is filled flush with the surface of the wall.

Use the trowel to get the surface as flat as possible. Plasterboard hole totally filled and leveled off. Repairing a Hole Using Timber Battens. Another way to fill a hole in plasterboard is to enlarge the hole first to make a square of a suitable size.

Then cut two battens (1. Feed a batten into the hole and twist it so it is either upright or horizontal and one third of the distance either up or down or across the hole. Make sure you have a 5.

With the batten positioned screw it in place through the front of the plasterboard making sure the screw heads go below the skim of plaster on the board. Do this with both battens and then cut a square of plasterboard to fit in the hole. This can be screwed to the battens with drywall screws and the square plastered together with the 4 screw holes for the battens. Using battens to repair hole in plasterboard wall. Take a look at our video sections on repairing holes in plasterboard and also our videos on suspended ceilings and watch films on plasterboard repair and installing a suspended ceiling.